The Tour That Didn’t End
The girls had signed up for an early morning ruins tour. Unfortunately the night before had involved a rooftop bar, four rounds of mezcal someone insisted were “local tradition,” something involving a jet ski that no one could fully explain the next morning, and a very emotional debate about which one of them was “the responsible one.”
By morning, responsibility was nowhere to be found.
Three girls had headaches. One refused to open her eyes. Another declared she might actually die.
So she went alone.
The tour was supposed to be two hours - ruins, a few historical facts, maybe a mango from a street cart if things went well. Instead she found herself halfway up a hillside in a country where the air smelled like coffee and wet stone.
He had been assigned to their group by the hotel, which was now just her, which he didn’t seem to mind at all.
He spoke about the history of the place like it was gossip. Kings who lost their heads, volcanoes that buried entire villages, a priest who ran off with someone’s wife in 1824. He told every story like he personally knew the people involved.
She stayed close. She told herself it was because she was getting her money’s worth.
The two hours came and went. She didn’t mention it. Neither did he.
He drove her further out in a truck that smelled faintly like coffee beans and motor oil, past fields of banana trees and bright houses painted colors that would cause zoning violations back home.
At one point he turned down a road that didn’t look like it led anywhere. She didn’t ask where they were going. He didn’t explain.
They ended up somewhere that didn’t have a sign, at a table outside, candles, plastic chairs, a speaker somewhere playing music too quietly to place, and the evening arrived slowly.
A plate appeared without either of them ordering: tostadas layered with crispy carnitas, charred chile salsa, candied jalapeños, crema, pickled onions, and lime.
He leaned back in his chair, sunlight catching the edge of his smile, and said, “You’re staying another day.”
She reached for a tostada. “I have a flight.”
He looked at her the way people look at something they’re fairly sure is going to go their way.
“You’re not leaving tomorrow.”
She should have insisted. She should have mentioned the flight she’d already paid for, the plans she had, the entire life she had scheduled neatly back home.
Instead she reached for another tostada and said, “We’ll see.”
The next morning she was back at the hotel by the time the girls woke up.
Earlier than she expected. Later than she should have been.
One of them squinted. “Did you stay out with the tour guide?”
She thought about it for a moment. “Only for dinner,” she said.
Another girl laughed softly. “Sure.”
No one asked any further questions.
Outside, somewhere in the distance, there was music. Faint. Brass, maybe.
No one commented on it.
By noon, two more things became clear.
Her return flight had been moved to the following afternoon.
And the recipe on the napkin - for the tostadas - had one extra line written underneath the salsa instructions:
Next time we go somewhere quieter.
✦✹✦
Carnitas Tostadas with Candied Jalapeños
- 2–3 lbs pork shoulder, cut into large chunks
- 1 tbsp salt
- 1 tsp black pepper
- 4 cloves garlic, smashed
- 1 orange, halved
- 1 onion, quartered
- 1 tsp dried oregano
- 1 tsp ground cumin
- ½ cup Mandarin Jarritos, divided
- ½ cup water
- 5–6 fresh jalapeños, thinly sliced
- ½ cup sugar
- ½ cup apple cider vinegar
- ¼ tsp salt
- 2–3 dried guajillo chiles, stems and seeds removed
- 2 tomatoes
- 2 cloves garlic
- ¼ onion
- Salt, to taste
- Splash of water
- 1 medium red onion, very thinly sliced
- ½ cup white vinegar
- ½ cup water
- 1 tbsp cane sugar
- 1½ tsp sea salt
- Optional: 1 garlic clove, lightly smashed
- Optional: ½ tsp whole black peppercorns
- ½ cup Mexican crema or sour cream
- Juice and zest of 1 lime
- Pinch of salt
- 8–10 crispy tostadas
- Fresh cilantro
- Lime wedges
1. Preheat the oven to 300°F and position a rack in the lower-middle section.
2. Season the pork with the salt and pepper and place it in a large Dutch oven with the garlic, onion, oregano, and cumin. Add ¼ cup of the Mandarin Jarritos and the water. Squeeze the orange over the pork, then add the squeezed orange halves to the pot.
3. Bring the liquid to a gentle simmer over medium-high heat. Cover the pot and transfer it to the oven.
4. Cook for 2½–3 hours, or until the pork is very tender and pulls apart easily with a fork.
5. Transfer the pork to a baking sheet and set aside until cool enough to handle. Strain the braising liquid, discarding the orange halves, onion, garlic, and other solids. Reserve the liquid.
6. Break the pork into rough, bite-size pieces, keeping some larger pieces intact rather than finely shredding it. Spoon a small amount of the reserved braising liquid over the pork.
7. Turn on the broiler. Spread the pork into a single layer and broil until the edges are browned and crisp.
8. While the pork crisps, combine ½ cup of the reserved braising liquid, the remaining ¼ cup Mandarin Jarritos, and 1 tablespoon fresh orange juice in a small saucepan. Bring to a lively simmer and cook until reduced and can lightly coat a spoon.
9. Drizzle the Mandarin-orange glaze over the crispy pork and gently toss, using only enough to lightly coat the meat.
10. Return the pork to the broiler for 1–2 minutes, watching it closely, until the glaze begins to caramelize around the edges.
11. Taste and season with additional salt or pepper, if needed. Keep warm while you prepare the tostadas.
1. Add the sugar, apple cider vinegar, and salt to a small saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring until the sugar dissolves.
2. Add the sliced jalapeños and cook for 4–5 minutes, stirring often, until glossy and slightly softened.
3. Transfer the jalapeños to a clean glass jar or bowl.
4. Continue boiling the syrup until slightly thickened.
5. Pour the syrup over the jalapeños, making sure they are fully covered. Let cool before serving.
1. Lightly toast the dried guajillo chiles in a dry pan, just until fragrant.
2. Soak the chiles in hot water for about 10 minutes.
3. Char the tomatoes, garlic, and onion in a dry pan until blistered.
4. Blend with the softened chiles, salt, and a splash of water until smooth.
1. Place the sliced onion in a clean glass jar or heatproof bowl. Add the garlic and peppercorns, if using.
2. In a small saucepan, combine the vinegar, water, sugar, and salt. Heat over medium heat, stirring just until the sugar and salt have dissolved.
3. Carefully pour the warm pickling liquid over the onions, making sure they are completely submerged.
4. Let cool to room temperature, then refrigerate until the onions are bright pink, about 30–60 minutes.
1. Stir together the crema, lime juice, lime zest, and salt until smooth.
1. Spread a spoonful of charred chile salsa over each tostada.
2. Top with crispy carnitas.
3. Add a drizzle of lime crema.
4. Add pickled onions and candied jalapeños.
5. Finish with cilantro and a squeeze of lime.
6. Serve immediately.
